—Conclusion—
Eating American
by Li Mang
Translated from the Chinese by Zhang Wenxian |
It's in America that I started to doubt the reliability
of so-called food science. According to Chinese traditional belief, it was
very bad for one's health to eat something raw and cold. However, in the
U.S., even in cold winters, waiters would always give customers a cup of ice
water instead of hot tea. I thought it's very strange to feed young babies
with cold milk. Everyone drank cold fruit juices and cokes right from the
refrigerator. Some Chinese people who had stomach problems while in China
feel much better now in America: they believed the sodium in cold drinks did
the magic. I have no clue!
Always wash fruits and vegetables thoroughly before you
eat them—we all know this basic rule since kindergarten. However, in
America people usually only clean them roughly with cold water, sometimes
just rubbing them with one's hands or clothes before eat them. I was told
human wastes were used as fertilizer in Chinese agriculture, which could be
a major source of disease if fruits and vegetables didn't go through some
special cleaning process. Since vast farmlands exist in America, there is no
need to use excrement as fertilizer. In addition, since the use of chemicals
is strictly regulated by the government, some people believe it is really
unnecessary to thoroughly washing fruits and vegetables here before eating.
In China it is said that saccharin could lead to cancer
and that MSG was good for one's health. However people in the U.S. hold
quite different views. There are so many obese people with clogged arteries
that they are very scared to eat fat, sugar, salt, and eggs. Instead they
chase all kinds of artificial products: man-made butter, artificial sugar,
etc. It seems no one is aware that eating saccharin could lead to cancer.
As to MSG, most Americans strongly believe it could cause headache and other
discomfort, or even more serious diseases. I believe there is a definite
need for communication between the food science experts of the two countries.
Evolving Food Culture
When I talked about the comparison of behaviors between
Americans and Chinese, Mrs. X asked me directly what race I meant exactly as
Americans. Would Chinese-Americans not be Americans? Scientifically and
historically speaking, only native Indians are pure Americans. In broader
terms, all people with U.S. citizenship are Americans, including white,
black, Hispanic, Chinese, Japanese, etc. American food should be the foods of all her people.
Then how about what kinds of food are unique in America?
The answers are probably McDonald's and Kentucky Fried Chicken. Most
restaurants bear names from Italy, France, China or Mexico. Some restaurants
have simple names such as Seafood, Ribs, and so on. However, experienced
customers can tell by simply tasting where chefs came from. Nowadays Italian
pizza is very popular in America. Mexican foods are more like rural Northern
Chinese food—thin corn pancakes with hot pepper sauces.
For me, American salad is the same as sheep food.
There is nothing but all kinds of raw vegetables—celery, bean, tomato, peppers,
lettuce—with some weird sauce. American beef is tender but is cooked
without salt and sauce which makes it awful in my opinion. Fortunately I
have five years of experience of eating steamed corn breads in the
countryside in China. I can handle them without any problem. Nevertheless, I
begin to miss Chinese foods after a while. We went to Chinese restaurants a
few times but I was deeply disappointed. Chinese food in the United States
has been Americanized. Fried egg rolls are no longer tiny and cute as in
Southern China but huge like a giant banana. The inside stuffing is no
longer delicate, but stuffed with meat, cabbage and radish. Fried dishes are
piled with tasteless broccoli and baby corn. No wonder Americans thought
chopsuey was typical Chinese food. Serving procedures are also quite strange
for me while dining in those American Chinese restaurants: ice water,
appetizer, main dish, dessert, and tea. Young lazy Americans usually go
straight and simple with one coke and a dish of chopsuey. They thought they
were having Chinese food!
Italians also complained that Italian restaurants did not
serve real Italian foods but some rough stuff to meet the needs of
Americans. One boss from an Italian restaurant told me: "What can I do?
I have to keep customers happy. If I cook in my way, they would complain and
leave." Therefore, foods there are heavier and with less European
delicacy. They are light in oil but tasteless.
"Fun" (fan) in Chinese means meal, something
that you should be able to get pleasure from. Even in America, one can still
enjoy real ethnic foods. You just need to know where to look—usually in a
single-race community of a large metropolitan area like Chinatown in New
York. Good luck and have fun if you can!
Copyright © Li Mang 2003
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